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When you tell your nearest and dearest that you're going backpacking through Guatamala, you tend to get a lot of pats on the back, well wishes and requests for photos. When you tell them you're off to Colombia, you get one response: Fear. People ask why, parents wring their hands, others counsel against it: all in all, Colombia has a very bad rep. However, the near fifty year conflict is subsiding a little and the government has created an aggressive campaign to try and attract tourism (according to the BBC this revolves around building golf courses, but I'm dubious about this approach). With a Caribbean coast, cloud forest, ancient Muisca ruins, coffee plantations, volcanic national parks, one of the most diverse selections of flora and fauna (especially fruit) and part of the freaking Amazon rainforest, you would think that Colombia would be the number one stop for South American travellers, dangerous or not. Venezuela, Bolivia, Guatemala; all of these countries have risks and security issues, none of which are considered daunting. We've also found (and will illustrate soon) that the things Colombians warn us against tend to run in complete contrast to the warnings of the British Council and the Foreign Office. In an attempt to shed some light on a murky subject, we're going to give an honest appraisal of how under threat two well-travelled young white women feel in the various places we visit here, starting with Bogota.
THEFT: I would have to say, for me, this is the biggest problem. All backpackers are familiar with pickpockets and the like, and Colombian thieves are rumoured to be the best in the world. While both of the Bandits have thus far been the victims of petty theft, I wouldn't consider it anything worse than any other part of Central or South America, or any capital city, you just need to keep a careful eye on your possessions, buy bags the zip close, never leave valuables in the side pockets of backpacks, etc etc. The transmilenio (above-ground metro) is the biggest threat, as you're crammed in there like sardines, but the Colombians are all very wary of their possessions so it's in no way bad form, and completely good sense, to hold your bag closed in front of you. Colombians will often tap you on the shoulder to tell you if your bag or pocket has come unzipped.
MORE AGGRESSIVE THEFT: Muggings are definitely a part of life in any big city, they can always happen. However, I have yet to hear of one amongst the various other expats here. The south of Bogota is famously poor and dangerous, but it's not somewhere you would ever go without a reason and a timetable (ie daylight), so the North is where the dangers lie. Despite people's warnings, Chapinero and Zona Rosa are all densly populated, and therefore always busy, and I've never felt threatened when walking at night. I advise girls to walk in pairs or groups (quietly!) after about 10 at night, and everyone should keep to well-lit streets and for the love of God avoid shouting loudly in English or drawing attention to yourself. However, this is again the same of most big cities in this part of the world, and given the choice I would choose a walk home at night in Bogota over Guatemala City any day of the week. La Candelaria is more famously touristy, and therefore more mugger-tastic, but once again they're hardly lurking around every corner, it's just a matter of exercising prudence and common sense. Take taxis, don't carry lots of cash and don't wander around empty neighbourhoods at three in the morning, but you don't need to feel any more nervous than you would in a dodgy part of London, and possibly less.
KIDNAPPING: This is probably the most famous crime attached to the Colombian brand. The problem is however, that when we hear 'kidnapping' most people think of Al Quaeda and beheadings. The FARC and Paramilitary groups here have no reason to capture tourists, no interest in or problem with tourists, and the very few incidents that are talked about were almost a decade ago and all ended well. Being kidnapped and held is honestly just not a likelihood. However...
EXPRESS KIDNAPPING: This is. Express Kidnapping is when you try to take a taxi, and two more men get in either side of you then hold you for an hour or so, robbing your phone, credit card and pin number. This is in no way targeted at tourists however, and is just as likely to happen to a Colombian as to a backpacker. Express Kidnappings are seriously on the decline, but unfortunately do still happen, in six weeks I've heard of two occurring, one to a Colombian and one to a foreigner. While this is obviously traumatic and bound to leave you poorer, violence is extremely rare and most people walk away, shaken but unharmed, a few hours later. Calling taxis is an enormous pain but can help avoid this, don't hail taxis off the street, and follow the Colombian example of noting the driver's face and license number before getting in. Also, never get in a taxi if the driver is wearing a baseball cap. This obscures their faces so they may not be the man on the license, but no Colombian would get in their cab so only driver's with something to hide wear them. Taxis are all yellow and marked as taxis, I've never seen or heard of a private car trying to get someone in, but if it were to happen, just walk away. Again, express kidnappings are probably the only risk unique to Colombia (well, Colombia and Mexico), but while they're a possibility, it's not very likely, and not something that keeps me from taking taxis.
MURDER: Colombia's murder rates are high, don't look at them. The problem lies in that people picture the murders as unwarranted or unprovoked, murders where they could be the victims, whereas the murder rate for tourists and foreigners is practically non-existent. The high murder rates stem from social problems and gang crime, and are almost entirely gang or conflict related. Avoid any areas of cocoa production and any areas of town frequented by criminals, which is again a standard action in any city, and you will completely sidestep these problems. In other words, stay away from anything seedy looking and you won't be caught in the crossfire. I can't even picture the lack of common sense it would take to get someone in that sort of position.
In other words, don't be frightened. Colombia has its problems, oh yes, but the areas that these problems affect are completely removed from those frequented by tourists, and thus the only threats tourists face are the same as anywhere, pickpockets and their own stupidity mostly. Nowhere is off limits during daylight hours, and at night all that's needed is a little common sense to not walk down that darkened alley alone listening to your Ipod. Although in all fairness, Colombians love to flaunt their Blackberries and Ipods, so you listening to yours on the Transmilenio is not going to scream instant target.
Now, in a few short hours, the Bandits are off to Cali. The Bogotanos, bless their souls, tout the dangers of Cali. People from Cali, however, fear the dangers of Bogota, and everyone is afraid of Medellin. City loyalty runs deep here, and from what I've heard from other tourists, there's really nothing to fear, and Colombians are famously protective. So we'll be back on Monday with an opinion of the safety situation in Cali, the salsa capital of Colombia.
x Erin x
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