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Sorry the Bandits have been a bit quiet lately, it's been a trying fortnight. However, we're back in force, with a lot of good posts coming through. We also depart for the pacific city of Cali tomorrow, of Cali Cartel fame, so look forward to some... interesting descriptions of the lifestyle there.
Right, it's time for the ultimate guide to Colombian food, Bogota Edition! Whether you're planning a trip or are just curious, the food here is definitely worth a look. The bases are mostly maize and cheese, with a selection of dishes available on absolutely every street corner and often with local variants.
SNACKS
AREPAS: These are by far the most important. I believe they are found in Ecuador and Venezuela as well, and are little maize pancakes about an inch thick, anywhere from spoon-sized to the size of my face. Concentration of, well, maizey-ness, varies from arepa to arepa, and every region has its own variety, but they're normally fried and crisp on the outside, fluffy and carby on the inside, and often filled with melted cheese or bbq chicken or beef. If you're looking for a stodgy, filling and extremely delicious meal, I highly recommend the chicken filled ones. You will never need to eat again. Arepas are sold at little empanaderias along pretty much all the roads, as well as in sit down restaurants and off street-carts. You can also buy them pre-packaged from the supermarket. They are essentially the staple of a Colombian's diet, and can be eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner, normally smothered in melted butter, salt and more cheese. And yes, you're about to start sensing a cheese/maize theme here...
EMPANADAS: Much like in many parts of South and Central America, empanadas are another staple snack or appetizer. About the size of your palm, they're little pastries (normally made from maize) stuffed with some variation of chicken, beef and rice. I prefer the Mexican version with beans and cheese, but Colombian empanadas are very passable. Variations on this theme are flautas (long and thin ones) and pastelitos (larger, turnover shaped ones), essentially if you see anything pastry-esque, it's probably made of maize and stuffed with chicken.
PANDEBONO: This is probably the most bizarre thing I've tasted here, while it looks the most inoffensive. It's round, fist-sized and looks like a very spherical ball of baked dough. Which is essentially what it is, but it manages to not be at all boring. The inside is surprisingly sweet and spongy, while the outside is dusted in some sort of tart cheese powder. Imagine rolling vanilla cake in parmesan, and you get the idea. It plays into the Colombian need to put cheese on absolutely everything, but is really not as bad as it sounds. Interesting. I'll go with interesting.
MEALS
AJIACO (SANTAFERENO): This is definitely my personal favourite. Imagine a giant, hardwood carved bowl. Now imagine it filled with a thick, creamy soup (given its texture by potatoes cooked till they crumble), with two more kinds of potato chunks, a giant haunch of soft, slow-cooked chicken, guascos (a sort of local green reminiscent of the dark ends of leeks) and capers, with a chunk of corn on the cob, skewered and floating in it, and a plate of rice and fresh avocado on the side. You can get this joyous, filling dish anywhere in the city, and it rocks my socks. Avocado and rice are an accompaniment for all traditional dishes, and it often comes with a separate plate of roast chicken, although strikes me as overkill. The dish is the definition of hearty and filling, while the capers give it a pleasant sharpness. I could easily eat this every day.
SANCOCHO: Normally located just under ajiaco on menus, this is similar, but in a thinner broth and with chunks of plantain and yucca floating in it. You cannot go wrong with either.
TAMALES: I know what you're thinking: you've already had tamales, right? Think again! This is nothing like anything I've had from the world of TexMex. Take maize, and mash it to the consistency of thick, yellow green mashed potatoes. The more salt and oxo you add, the better. We wouldn't want anyone accusing us of neglecting the vegetables though, so chuck in a few peas and carrot chunks. Enough? What, there's no meat? Ah ok, then stick in another slow-cooked chicken haunch. Now wrap that sucker in a plantain leaf and boil it till it's a sticky little lump of carbs, and serve with a roll and a cup of hot chocolate. I'm not even kidding about the hot chocolate, that's the only way it's served. I think you need the sweetness to cut all the salt. It sounds a little horrifying, but it's actually quite good, it just tastes like.... well like chicken stock that's somehow chewy.
LECHONA: A large pig, stomach slit and stuffed with rice, onions and spices, then cooked whole in a clay oven for nine hours. I very much hesitate to try this one, feel free to try it yourselves and fill me in.
PATACONES: Two words - Twice Fried. Yes yes, it's a crispy plate made of twice-fried plantain, and covered in various toppings (literally anything: taco, thai, bbq etc). Eating it is disastrous, but so worth it. Can also be found in the form of just the fried plantain chips, from stalls on the streets or packaged in supermarkets with the crisps.
STREET FOOD
Arepas etc can also be found on the street, but are more common from small shops and newsagents. The following are only available from carts.
OBLEAS: Two plate sized waffle-wafer things, sandwiched with goodies. The various goodies are displayed in bell-shaped glass jars for you to choose, and your mouth will water as you see the dulce de leche, then the dark pink jam, then the thick vanilla cream... and then your eyes fall on the final jar. You will tell yourself it must be dessicated coconut, even as she puts a liberal layer on your oblea. As you take your first bite, you will repeat the coconut mantra. Do not be fooled though, because of course, it's cheese. Shredded, white, salty cheese, all over your beautiful dulce de leche. So here are the two most important words you must learn for ordering food in Colombia: SIN QUESO! (cheeseless)
CHURROS: Deep fried rolls of dough covered in cinnamon sugar, just like in good ol' Mexico.
SALPICON: A fruit cocktail that looks disturbingly like baked beans, but is really chunks of bean-shaped mystery fruit floating in bright red mystery fruit juice. A must for fans of mysteries.
DRINKS
I hope you've all read the post on aguardiente, so I'll spare you the vivid description and stick to the others...
INFUSIONES: For some reason very popular here, they're tiny packets of concentrated, sugared fruit jellies that you squeeze into cups of hot water and drink. I was a little confused, but they taste like sweet fruit teas and I've come to quite wish we had them at home.
AGUA DE PANELA: A hot drink (that looks exactly like coffee), made from mashed sugar cane. Tastes a little like several spoonfuls of demerera sugar in hot water, which suits me just fine. If you like the taste of raw sugar, this is fabulous.
GUANABANA JUICE: The guanabana, if you have forgotten, is the big-ass spikey green fruit thing that I have spoken much of. Inside though it's white and fluffy, and the juice is mixed with milk to make a sort of healthy milkshake, which tastes exactly like a cross between strawberries and watermelon.
TINTO: How every living person in this country takes their coffee. Sort of a cross between an espresso and a normal black coffee, I find the tiny cups of strong, cheap coffee a little bitter, but my better half swears by them and they're so cheap as to be practically free.
Sadly I have yet to avail myself of the deserts, so far I've mostly seen jam rolled in sugar (no part of that was a joke), but updates are on their way. Also coming are descriptions of the different food in the Caribbean parts of the country, with fish everywhere and coconut rice. And thus I bravely sacrifice myself for my readers...
x Erin x
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