Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
The Lost City - Zenuwachtig!
The Lost city should be the easiest entry that I have every written, my time there was full of adventure, sublime scenery and amazing people but all I end up with is a list of superlatives that do nothing to capture the amazing 5 day hike through the Sierra Nevada mountains. So, I am going to break it down into subsections and you my dear reader will have to forgive me for the rambling below.
The Drive
The drive to the Lost City was an adventure in itself, on the way we saw where a recent flood had destroyed homes and business and it was the first taste of how volatile the mountains and its climate could be. Once we left the road things in a 4x4 became a lot more exciting, read exciting through this entry as exciting/terrifying, or as the Dutch say zenuwachtig! The 4x4 careened around blind corners taking on all comers until we reached a crater in the middle of the road. A recent and not uncommon landslide had made the road impassable and therefore our first introduction to our fellow hikers came as we formed an assembly line and passed rocks to fill in the mammoth hole. With the first obstacle conquered we got back into our cars and continued our spiralling journey around the mountain until one of the wheels of our 4x4 decided to part company with us and we had to reload into another jeep to reach the beginning of the trek.
The Walk
The first day: Should have been a walk in the proverbial park, but the aforementioned floods of the previous days resulted in the river crossing being 3 times stronger than normal and even left the guides slightly bemused as these normally sedate stream crossings reached the waist height. The normal paths had been washed out and resulted in the group residing ourselves to the fact that we would be covered in thick red clay for the foreseeable future. We arrived at the campsite in the dark and while we all waited half naked to get dry and congratulated ourselves on arriving after a paltry four hours of walking the guides donned head torches and got about the practical business of stringing up hammocks and preparing our food.
The Food
I haven't finished the walk part of this rambling entry but now is an opportune moment to mention the food. From the moment we woke up until the moment that our heads touched the hammock/pillow/ground every two hours you have some form of food placed in front of you. Whether it is a mound of eggs in the morning, pieces of fresh fruit and chocolate throughout the walk or a mountain of rice, beans and meat of a night the guides made sure that we all had enough fuel to keep us going. In addition to this Erin and I had a secret stash of biscuits for a quick jolt of sugar throughout the day which proved invaluable.
The Walk Continued
As we headed deeper into the jungle the scenery continued becoming more and more breathtaking from clambering over waterfalls to skirting narrow ledges that plunged into ravines or into the crashing torrent of the river below. The only thing more satisfying than scrambling into clean, in a manner of speaking, and dry clothes at the end of a days walk was the satisfaction of finding a perfect foothold on a rock face or crossing a river without being swept away. As the days progressed the river got stronger making it impossible, personally, to cross without grasping onto a rope. Although, as I struggled and panted through the river the guides, in this case Jason, tried to have a quick chat with me while he stood serenely in the middle of the river.
The other enchanting thing about the trek to La Cuidad Perdida is the chance encounters with the local indigenous tribes and the information the guides give you about their lifestyles that are practically unchanged. One of the indigenous groups still uses the LC as a religious site and it is the reason why the ruins are closed to the public for 20 days a year. Only a select few of the tribes people speak Spanish and the children only know the most important word, 'Dulces!' or sweets as they run from their villages in order to grab sweets off the passing guides. One day we encounted a shamans wife who at the age of 93 had raised 18 children and was still negotiating the steep path with a vigour that I don't think I have ever possessed!
These meetings and sights are the main reason why it is essential not to get caught up in the mission of walking because you miss out of the local flora and fauna. The jungle is teeming with parrots, eagles, vultures and other beautiful birds, butterflies, lizards, billions of leafcutter and army ants and unfortunately for me swarms of mosquitoes. Thankfully, my legs are healed now but for the last days of the trip I looked like a bubonic plague survivor.
La Cuidad Perdida
Eventually on the dawn of the fourth day it is time for the Lost City. Backpacks left at the site and with only a camera in hand the last hour to the LC is extremely fun, there are rocks to climb and awkward spots to be figured out and then you reach the 'steps'. 1200 steps to be precise or to be truthful 1200 stones slick with moss and dew that are laid out in something slightly resembling a staircase. However, when you reach the submit the view is spectacular, incredible, awe-inspiring and above all an amazing sense of tranquillity descends on everybody. I have not been to Machu Pichu but from what I gather the Peruvian ruins are more spectacular in their own right, however the LC has the edge with the feeling of isolation only 15 people and the army posted on the top of the ruins shared the 3 hours that we explored the grassy terraces and starred at the beautifully imposing mountains that encircle the ruins. It is hard to express the feeling of sitting on top of ruins that are older than Machu Pichu by some 650 years, without becoming entrenched in clichés. In the beautiful sunshine eating a Gol bar, a chocolate bar that is now very close to my heart, and chatting to the people that you have spent the past 4 days with, it is a special moment.
The Last Day
One of the best things about the Lost City trek is the people that you meet in my small group there were: A group of Germans, an Austrian pair, An Irish couple, A Swiss-French man and a French brother and sister and of course Erin. Everybody spoke different languages and had different levels of Spanish which led to a lot of sign language, translation and Erin and I leaning random Gallic words! Therefore, the ultimate day was one of mixed emotions, success and sadness, the last meal between the group was bittersweet everybody was looking forward to getting a shower, the communal smell was not the best, especially from the members of the group that did not take advantage of swimming in the river.
Personally, I relished swimming in the river and for me it was one of the highlights of the whole trek. Although there were showers in the campsites nothing washed the mud and sweat off like jumping off the ledge into the icy cold river and swimming up to the rapids to soothe the muscles, in a natural hot tub After the river, it was only 30 minutes to civilisation, and as Erin coined it 'The Huts of Finish!'.
For me, it was a huge achievement not only because a picture of the Lost City has been on my bedroom wall and checklist of things to do for some years, but it has also opened my eyes. Previously, I have never thought of myself as a outdoor activity person, but I am already planning my next expedition. In a nutshell even though my home will always be the city I now need to escape into the wilderness once in a while to truly appreciate the urban jungle.
Lauren x
- comments
Rachel It sounds A-MAZ-ING!!!
Sarah LIKE
jeff felt the experience without getting wet, brilliant,thanks Loz. x
Doreen what a truly amazing experience!...